What Is Jacquard? Woven vs Knit, Types and EUR Costs

Jacquard material is one of the oldest and most technically demanding fabrics still in production, and it sits behind a large share of decorative apparel and high-end upholstery. We have withdrawn a figure putting it at roughly 8% of European decorative apparel output, along with the EURATEX citation attached to it: EURATEX publishes trade, employment and output data for the European industry, not construction-level share statistics. It's the fabric behind brocade coats, damask dresses, textured knit sweaters with woven-in patterns, and the tapestry-style pieces that keep reappearing on Parisian runways. For fashion founders sourcing production in Portugal, understanding jacquard is often the difference between a garment that reads couture and one that reads cheap.

What this guide covers

This guide covers what jacquard actually is, the difference between woven and knit jacquard, the main sub-families (brocade, damask, matelassé, jacquard knit), real EUR pricing per meter across the Portuguese cluster, MOQ realities, and how the 12% of our documented factories capable of jacquard production actually route these orders. Every number below reflects the manufacturer-side view.

Key takeaways

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What Is Jacquard Material?

Jacquard is a fabric with a pattern woven or knitted directly into the structure, rather than printed or embroidered on the surface. It's produced on a specialised loom (or knitting machine) where each warp yarn can be lifted independently, allowing designs of huge complexity. A figure putting the European figured-fabric market at roughly €4.1bn in 2024 has been withdrawn: EURATEX publishes no such market sizing.

Why the name describes the machine

The name refers to the loom, not the fibre. Jacquard fabric can be made from cotton, wool, silk, linen, viscose, or blends, and can be woven or knitted. What defines it is the mechanism: individual yarn control that lets designers weave motifs into the fabric itself. Flip a jacquard piece over and you'll see the pattern reversed on the back, with the yarn floats visible. That structural reversibility is the fastest way to spot a real jacquard versus a print pretending to be one.

Where it sits among fabrics

Within the fabric family, jacquard sits at the technical top of the tree. It requires more setup than plain weaving, longer cycles, and higher fabric MOQs, which is why the price and MOQ tiers are notably higher than jersey or plain woven cotton.

Other names you might see

Depending on the sub-family, jacquard shows up in supplier catalogues as "brocade" (heavy, often metallic-thread woven), "damask" (reversible tone-on-tone woven), "matelassé" (quilted-look double-cloth jacquard), or "jacquard knit" (the sweater-friendly variant). Portuguese mills sometimes label it "tecido jacquard" or "malha jacquard" depending on the construction. The underlying loom mechanism is the same across all of these.

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What Does Jacquard Mean?

Jacquard means a fabric whose pattern is built into the weave or knit rather than printed or stitched onto it. The word is a surname, not a material: it comes from Joseph Marie Jacquard, whose loom mechanism made that kind of patterning possible at industrial scale from 1805 onward.

What jacquard is not

It is not a fibre. A jacquard can be cotton, wool, silk, linen, viscose, polyester or any blend. If a label says "jacquard" and nothing else, it has told you how the cloth was made and nothing about what it is made of.

How to tell a real jacquard in two seconds

Turn it over. A jacquard shows the pattern again on the reverse, mirrored, with the yarn floats visible where the motif sits on the face. A print shows a blank or faded back. Embroidery shows stitch backing. That one check separates a woven-in pattern from a surface one, and it is the test to apply to any supplier sample that arrives described as "jacquard".

What Is the History of the Jacquard Loom?

The machine is named after Joseph Marie Jacquard of Lyon, and it is widely credited as one of the earliest programmable machines in industrial history. The dates are messier than the usual telling. Jacquard patented a loom in December 1800, and a further patent in 1801 covered an improved drawloom that is often mistaken for the card-driven machine. The punched-card loom itself was working by April 1805, when Napoleon declared it public property and granted Jacquard a pension and royalty. Jacquard never patented the punched-card device that carries his name, and he did not invent its parts: he combined Basile Bouchon and Jean-Baptiste Falcon's punched cards with Jacques Vaucanson's cylinder mechanism. Earlier versions of this article gave a flat "invented in 1804".

What came before the mechanism

Before the jacquard mechanism, figured fabrics required a "draw loom" operated by two workers: the weaver and a helper who manually lifted individual yarns for each pass. A single meter of complex brocade could take a full day. Jacquard's punched-card system replaced the human helper with a repeatable, encoded pattern, and multiplied output dramatically. Lyon became Europe's silk-weaving capital largely because of it, and the mechanism spread across Italy, Britain, and eventually Portugal's northern textile belt during the 19th century.

Electronic jacquard today

Modern jacquard looms are electronic. Machines from Stäubli, Bonas, and Vandewiele use servo-controlled hooks and digital pattern files instead of punched cards, but the principle is identical: individual warp yarn control, one warp end at a time. The best Portuguese jacquard mills today run electronic looms controlling many thousands of warp ends individually, which is what lets designers push complex multi-colour figured designs into a single continuous fabric.

Why this history still matters

Why this history still matters: the jacquard loom is why complex patterns exist in modern apparel at accessible prices. Without it, a printed floral tee is easy, but a woven-in floral coat would still cost thousands. That mechanism, essentially unchanged in principle since 1805, is what makes brocade dresses viable at €150 retail instead of €1,500. It's easy to forget, but every jacquard order you place is a direct descendant of Lyon 1804.

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What Is the Difference Between Woven and Knit Jacquard?

Woven and knit jacquard use the same core idea, individual yarn control, but the machinery, drape, and end use differ significantly. Both constructions are produced across the northern cluster, with knit volume structurally larger than woven-outerwear volume. A 62/38 woven-to-knit split credited to ATP has been withdrawn: ATP publishes no such breakdown. The two constructions serve different garment categories and rarely compete for the same brief.

How woven jacquard is made

Woven jacquard is produced on a jacquard loom with warp and weft yarns interlacing at right angles. The fabric is stable, structured, holds shape for tailored garments, and typically shows a crisp, defined motif. Weight ranges from about 180 GSM up to 400+ GSM for coating-weight brocades. Woven jacquard is what you see in couture dresses, tailored coats, upholstery, and decorative accessories.

How jacquard knit is made

Jacquard knit is produced on a jacquard-capable circular or flat knitting machine (Stoll, Shima Seiki, and similar), where each needle can be controlled independently. The result is a fabric with the same figured pattern capability but the elasticity and hand-feel of a knit. Weight ranges from about 200 to 320 GSM. Jacquard knit dominates sweater production, structured tops, and knitwear with woven-in motifs.

Attribute	Woven Jacquard	Jacquard Knit	Plain Woven
Construction	Warp + weft interlaced on loom	Knitted with individual needle control	Warp + weft, no yarn-level control
Stretch	Minimal	Moderate to high	Minimal
Drape	Structured, crisp	Softer, more give	Depends on weight
Pattern complexity	Very high (8,192-14,336 hooks)	High (per-needle control)	Uniform (no motif)
Weight range	180-400+ GSM	200-320 GSM	100-350 GSM
Typical uses	Coats, dresses, upholstery	Sweaters, structured tops	Shirting, linings
Cost per meter (PT, cotton)	€8-15	€7-13	€3-7
Typical lead time	6-10 weeks	5-8 weeks	3-5 weeks

Sources: PCF factory group data (2024-2026), industry references.

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What Are the Types of Jacquard Fabrics?

Jacquard breaks into four main sub-families that emerging brands should recognise: brocade, damask, matelassé, and jacquard knit. Between them they cover effectively everything a fashion brand will be quoted. A "more than 90%" share credited to ATP has been withdrawn as unsupported. Each has a distinct look, weight profile, and price ladder.

Brocade

Brocade is a heavyweight woven jacquard, historically shot with silk and metallic threads, now most often produced in cotton, viscose, or blends with lurex accents. The pattern sits raised against a satin or twill ground, giving brocade its characteristic three-dimensional look. Weight typically 220 to 400+ GSM. Used for occasion coats, statement jackets, evening wear, and structured skirts. Portuguese brocade in cotton runs €10 to €18 per meter; wool and silk-blend brocades push €25 to €60.

Damask

Damask is a reversible tone-on-tone woven jacquard, where the pattern is created by contrasting the satin face and matte ground of the same colour. It reads elegant and understated, and shows the exact same design on both sides (with reversed contrast). Weight typically 180 to 300 GSM. Used for shirting-weight dresses, blouses, structured tops, tablecloths, and interiors. Cotton damask from Portuguese mills runs €8 to €15 per meter.

Matelassé

Matelassé is a double-cloth jacquard that produces a quilted or padded appearance without any actual quilting. The pattern is raised through two layers of fabric loomed together with stuffer yarns between, creating dimensional relief. Weight typically 240 to 360 GSM. Used for structured jackets, dresses, and cropped tops with body. Portuguese matelassé in cotton or cotton-blend runs €12 to €22 per meter.

Jacquard knit (tapestry-style)

Jacquard knit uses per-needle machine control to build patterns into a knitted fabric. Sub-styles include intarsia jacquard, birdseye jacquard, and full-colour figured jacquard (sometimes called "tapestry-style" knit for the dense multi-colour look). Weight typically 200 to 320 GSM. Used for sweaters, cardigans, structured tops, kids' knitwear, and modern streetwear pieces with woven-in graphics. Portuguese jacquard knit runs €7 to €13 per meter for cotton, €14 to €28 for wool blends.

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What Garments Use Jacquard?

Jacquard shows up across a wider range of apparel than most emerging brands realise. Its largest single application is knitwear, followed by occasion outerwear, dresses, and upholstery-inspired ready-to-wear. We have withdrawn figures putting jacquard in 27% of EU premium dresses and 19% of premium coats, credited to EURATEX: no such product-level survey is published.

Applications by construction

Specific garment applications by construction type:

• Jacquard knit sweaters and cardigans: the largest category by volume. Chunky Nordic-style pullovers, birdseye knit polos, intarsia-look pieces with woven-in graphics
• Brocade coats and jackets: structured statement outerwear, often for autumn/winter capsule pieces and occasion collections
• Damask dresses and shirting: midi and maxi dresses, structured shirt-dresses, elegant blouses with tone-on-tone motifs
• Matelassé jackets and cropped tops: structured jacket bodies with quilted-look relief, dresses with dimensional pattern
• Upholstery-inspired ready-to-wear: the "renaissance-tapestry-blazer" and floral-brocade-trench trend that keeps cycling back onto runways
• Accessories: jacquard bucket bags, ties, headbands, and belts using narrower woven jacquard trims

Emerging brands frequently underestimate the versatility of jacquard knit at 220 to 260 GSM. It knits beautifully into cardigans, structured tops, and kids' knitwear, and doesn't carry the price ceiling of woven brocade. If a founder wants "woven-in graphic" without the couture-level cost, jacquard knit is usually the right answer.

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Is Jacquard a Summer or a Winter Fabric?

Both, because jacquard is a construction rather than a weight or a fibre. What decides the season is the GSM and what it is woven from, not the fact that it is figured.

For warm weather

Cotton or linen damask at 180 to 220 GSM breathes well and is a genuine summer cloth: structured shirting, midi dresses, camp collars. Lightweight cotton jacquard knit at 200 to 220 GSM works for spring and early autumn layering.

For cold weather

Brocade at 300 GSM and above, wool jacquard, and matelassé are autumn and winter fabrics. The double-cloth construction in matelassé traps air between its layers, so it insulates better than its weight alone suggests. Wool jacquard knit at 240 to 320 GSM is the standard winter sweater construction.

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What Does Jacquard Fabric Cost per Meter in Portugal?

Jacquard fabric prices in Portugal in 2026 range from €7 per meter for the lightest cotton jacquard knit to €60 per meter for silk-blend brocade. Fibre composition is the single largest cost driver, followed by pattern complexity and the certification stack. We have withdrawn a 55/20/15 variance decomposition and the ATP citation attached to it: that is a regression nobody has run, and ATP publishes no fabric price survey. A one-time custom-pattern setup fee typically runs €400 to €1,500 on top of the per-meter cost.

Understanding these tiers helps founders budget accurately during tech pack preparation, especially since jacquard is one of the fabric categories where "assumed" pricing is most often wrong by 2x or more.

Fibre composition drives base cost

Cotton jacquard sits at the bottom of the price ladder, viscose blends and cotton-lurex sit in the middle, wool blends and silk blends sit at the top. A silk brocade at 240 GSM can cost 4x to 6x more per meter than a comparable cotton jacquard knit, purely on fibre input.

Pattern complexity adds meaningful cost

A two-colour geometric motif with a 10 cm repeat is much cheaper to weave than a 6-colour floral with a 90 cm repeat. Complex multi-colour patterns require more warp yarns per repeat, longer loom setup, and slower weaving cycles. In our experience routing jacquard orders across the group, complex-pattern fabrics run 20 to 35% above simple-pattern equivalents at the same fibre and GSM.

Setup fees are real and one-time

Custom jacquard patterns require a CAD file conversion, a loom-file build, and a sample loom cycle before production begins. Portuguese mills typically charge €400 to €800 for a straightforward pattern setup and €1,000 to €1,500 for complex multi-colour or double-cloth matelassé patterns. This fee is one-time per pattern, not per production run, but the first run has to absorb it.

Practical planning: for a jacquard-knit sweater using 1.4 meters of 240 GSM cotton jacquard, fabric cost lands at €10 to €18 per garment. For a brocade coat using 2.8 meters of 300 GSM cotton-lurex brocade, fabric cost lands at €28 to €50 per garment before the setup fee is amortised. Add the setup across the first production run: on a 300-unit brocade coat run, a €800 setup adds €2.67 per unit.

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What Are the MOQs for Jacquard Production?

Fabric-level MOQs for jacquard in Portugal typically run 300 to 500 meters at the mill, which is higher than plain-woven or standard knit because the loom setup and warp preparation are expensive to justify below that threshold. At the garment level, MOQs at documented jacquard-capable factories in our group start at 200 units per style, from our own booking records. This is a meaningful jump above the 100-unit floor that applies to French terry or single jersey.

Three factors drive jacquard MOQs higher: the mill's warp-thread setup cost (which can't be recovered on a 50-meter run), the loom occupation time (a jacquard loom running your pattern is not running anyone else's), and the pattern-file build cost that has to be spread over some minimum length.

Fabric MOQ tiers at Portuguese mills

Roughly 40% of jacquard-capable mills in the region accept 200-meter minimums on stock patterns (existing patterns already loomed, no new setup). 45% require 300 to 500 meters as the standard floor for custom patterns. The remaining 15% require 800+ meters, typically the higher-end silk and wool jacquard specialists who won't warp a loom for anything smaller.

Garment MOQ tiers at jacquard-capable factories

At the garment stage, MOQs are more forgiving than fabric MOQs. Most factories in our group that produce jacquard garments accept 200 to 300 units per style. A handful accept 100 to 150 units if the fabric MOQ is already covered by a larger multi-style order or the pattern is a stock design.

What this means in practice: we've observed that founders launching a jacquard capsule almost always solve the MOQ problem by ordering enough fabric for two or three garment styles at once. A single 400-meter fabric run can cover a coat, a dress, and a top from the same brocade, which spreads the setup cost and keeps unit economics viable.

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How Do Portuguese Factories Produce Jacquard?

Portugal produces jacquard across two clusters: the woven-jacquard belt around Guimarães and Vila Nova de Famalicão, and the jacquard-knit specialists concentrated in Barcelos and Braga. Together jacquard sits at higher price points than plain cloth, so it carries disproportionate export value for the mills that run it. A "roughly 6% of national fabric output by value" figure credited to ATP has been withdrawn as unsupported. About 12% of documented factories in our group work with jacquard.

The production sequence

Portuguese jacquard production follows a specific sequence: brand supplies a design (usually as a repeat-ready CAD file or an artwork brief), the mill converts it to a loom file and produces a sample on a smaller loom (2 to 3 weeks), the sample is approved or revised, the mill warps the production loom and runs the fabric (3 to 5 weeks depending on GSM, complexity, and finish), then the fabric ships to a CMT factory for garment assembly (3 to 5 additional weeks). Total lead time from CAD to shipped garment typically runs 9 to 13 weeks, which is roughly 3 to 4 weeks longer than a plain-knit garment programme.

Production-side observation: across 2024-2026 runs coordinated through our factory group, the average lead time for a first jacquard-knit sweater programme was 71 days from approved CAD to shipped units. For a woven brocade coat programme, the average was 87 days. Custom pattern development consumed 18 to 22 days on average, longer than most founders expect. That's the stage where fabric booking and loom scheduling collide, and it's the single biggest lead-time lever we adjust when routing production.

The role of the CAD-to-loom step

Why the CAD file is the pacing item

The CAD file for a jacquard pattern isn't a printable image. It has to be converted into a per-warp instruction file that the loom's controller reads row by row. This conversion is done by the mill's technical team or a dedicated pattern studio, and it involves colour reduction (jacquard is limited by the number of warp colours the loom can handle simultaneously), repeat definition, and sometimes weave-structure choices that affect the fabric's feel. A well-prepared brief cuts this stage from three weeks to two.

Why in-cluster routing matters

The Portuguese jacquard cluster is tight geographically. A mill in Vila Nova de Famalicão and a CMT factory in Braga are 30 minutes apart by van. That means finished fabric can move from mill to garment factory in the same day, versus the two to four days of transit that horizontal Asian supply chains typically require. In our experience, this in-cluster proximity saves 5 to 8 days per production run and reduces the "fabric arrived damaged, we don't know from where" incidents that plague cross-border jacquard sourcing.

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Should You Choose Jacquard, Print or Embroidery?

The most common founder question about jacquard is whether to use it, or use a print, or use embroidery to achieve a similar visual effect. Each solves a different problem. A 54% print / 28% jacquard / 18% embroidery split across European "pattern-forward" apparel has been withdrawn along with its EURATEX citation: EURATEX runs no such brand survey. The right choice depends on drape, feel, budget, and how the garment is meant to read on the body.

Jacquard weaves the design into the fabric structure, so the pattern is fully integrated: reversible, texture-forward, and impossible to peel or crack. It's the premium choice for occasion pieces and knitwear, but carries higher MOQ, cost, and lead time. Print puts the design on top of the fabric, either digitally, rotary-screen, or sublimation. It's the cheapest and fastest option, allows unlimited colour, and works on almost any fabric, but the design sits on the surface and can fade over wash cycles. Embroidery stitches the design into the fabric with additional yarn, producing a raised, tactile motif in specific placements, but doesn't scale for large-coverage patterns and adds significant per-unit cost.

The three compared

Attribute	Jacquard	Print	Embroidery
Where the design lives	Woven into structure	On surface of fabric	Stitched into fabric
Colour count	Limited by loom (typ. 2-8)	Unlimited (digital)	Limited by thread stops
Coverage	Full fabric	Full fabric	Placement only
Reversibility	Yes (visible on both sides)	No	Partial
Feel	Textured, dimensional	Flat	Raised, tactile
Lead time added vs plain	+3-4 weeks	+0-1 week	+1-2 weeks
Cost premium vs plain	60-200%	5-30%	Per-stitch, varies
Best for	Sweaters, coats, dresses	Everything, especially graphics	Logos, monograms, placements

Sources: PCF factory group data (2024-2026), industry references.

When to choose which: we consistently see three patterns. Brands prioritising a premium, structural, tactile aesthetic (occasion pieces, sweaters, upholstery-inspired outerwear) go with jacquard. Brands prioritising cost, speed, and unlimited colour (streetwear graphics, seasonal capsules with turnover) go with print. Brands prioritising specific-placement branding (chest logos, pocket monograms, cuff details) go with embroidery. It's rarely either/or: a well-designed collection often uses all three across different styles.

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Where Does Jacquard Fit in Your Range?

The practical takeaway across the sections above: match jacquard to the product categories where its properties actually matter, specify it clearly on the tech pack (name the branded fibre or exact composition), and place production with a Portuguese factory in the subset that stocks the yarn or has the finishing lines built for it.

Get the spec right and the fabric becomes a repeatable, reliable choice. Leave it vague and you invite substitution, wash-cycle problems, and margin surprises.

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Frequently Asked Questions

What is jacquard material made of?

Jacquard refers to the loom mechanism, not the fibre. The fabric can be made from cotton, wool, silk, linen, viscose, polyester, or blends. Cotton and cotton blends are the most common composition we see quoted, with wool blends and silk blends at the premium end. A precise 48/22/12 split credited to ATP has been withdrawn: ATP publishes no composition breakdown of Portuguese jacquard output.

What's the difference between jacquard and brocade?

Brocade is a specific type of woven jacquard: heavy, with a raised motif against a satin or twill ground, often shot with metallic or contrasting threads. All brocade is jacquard, but not all jacquard is brocade. Damask, matelassé, and jacquard knit are the other main sub-families in the jacquard fabric family.

Is jacquard fabric expensive?

Jacquard is typically 60 to 200% more expensive per meter than a plain fabric of the same fibre and weight, driven by loom setup, longer weaving cycles, and higher fabric MOQs. In Portugal in 2026, prices run €7 to €15 per meter for cotton jacquard, €18 to €32 for wool blends, and €25 to €60 for silk blends.

Is jacquard fabric good for warm weather?

It depends on the construction and weight. Light cotton or linen jacquard at 180 to 220 GSM breathes well and works for summer dresses and shirting. Heavier brocade or wool jacquard at 300+ GSM is autumn/winter fabric. Jacquard knit at 200 to 240 GSM sits comfortably in spring and autumn wardrobes.

Can jacquard fabric be washed?

Yes, but care depends on fibre. Cotton jacquard tolerates machine washing at 30°C with mild detergent. Wool and silk jacquard require hand wash or dry clean to preserve pattern integrity and prevent yarn distortion. Wash-care mistakes are a real source of returns on jacquard, because the pattern is structural and yarn distortion shows immediately. A figure putting them at roughly 30% of returns has been withdrawn, along with the Textile Exchange citation attached to it: Textile Exchange reports fibre production data and publishes nothing on garment returns.

What is the minimum order for jacquard production in Portugal?

Fabric-level MOQs run 300 to 500 meters at most Portuguese jacquard mills, and 800+ meters at high-end silk and wool specialists. Garment MOQs at jacquard-capable factories in our group typically start at 200 units per style, versus the 100-unit floor common on plain-knit programmes. Custom pattern setup fees add €400 to €1,500 one-time.

How long does jacquard production take in Portugal?

Total lead time from approved CAD to shipped garment typically runs 9 to 13 weeks: 2 to 3 weeks for CAD-to-loom conversion and sample, 3 to 5 weeks for fabric production, and 3 to 5 weeks for garment CMT. This is roughly 3 to 4 weeks longer than a plain-knit programme, driven mostly by the pattern setup and loom scheduling stages.

Is jacquard the same as damask?

No. Damask is a specific sub-type of woven jacquard, distinguished by its reversible tone-on-tone construction where the pattern reads on both sides in reversed contrast. Jacquard is the broader category, including damask, brocade, matelassé, and jacquard knit. Every damask is a jacquard, but not every jacquard is a damask.

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Related reading

• GSM guide: what fabric weight actually means
• What is rib knit?
• What is jersey fabric?
• Choosing fabric for apparel
• Fabric sourcing in Portugal
• MOQ minimums in Portugal
• Clothing manufacturing costs in Portugal
• OEKO-TEX vs GOTS vs bluesign

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Sources used in this article

• EURATEX, European Apparel and Textile Confederation - Facts & Key Figures, cited for European industry context only. EURATEX publishes no market sizing or construction-share data for figured fabrics; four claims credited to it in earlier versions have been withdrawn
• ATP, Associação Têxtil e Vestuário de Portugal - sector association, cited for cluster context only. ATP publishes no fabric price survey and no jacquard production breakdown; earlier versions of this article credited it for nine separate percentage splits that do not exist
• CITEVE, Centro Tecnológico das Indústrias Têxtil e do Vestuário de Portugal - cited for general weaving context only. CITEVE publishes no loom specifications; the hook counts on this page come from Stäubli
• Stäubli - LXL PRO jacquard machine specifications (hook counts of 8,192 to 14,336)
• Textile Exchange - Materials Market Report (2023)
• Musée des Tissus, Lyon - historical record of the Jacquard loom (Joseph Marie Jacquard, 1804)

First-party data

• PCF internal factory documentation (2024-2026) - Data from 80 documented and 25 verified Portuguese factories in our group, covering jacquard capability, MOQ thresholds, fabric pricing observations, and lead time patterns

Portugal Clothing Factory is a group of 80 documented Portuguese clothing factories, 25 verified, in the northern textile cluster (Porto, Guimarães, Braga, Barcelos, Famalicão). We charge flat fees, reply within 24 hours, and place production with the factory in our group built for your product. See how we work or get in contact to place your order.